For the first time ever, Cape Verde is heading to the World Cup. The West African island nation – home to fewer than half a million people – will be one of the smallest countries in tournament history. In the capital Praia, preparations are in full swing, with qualification sparking huge excitement and renewed hope among young people. In working-class neighbourhoods, football has long been an escape – and now, a global stage awaits. Sarah Sakho and Simon Martin report.